Cha Thé Tea

2008年01月21日 20:09 光明日報 　　基諾伴著大鼓舞 創刊告讀者 當前，中華各族兒女正沐浴著黨的十七大春風，在科學發展觀的正確指引下，團結奮斗，共同繁榮，血脈相連，和諧發展。迎著早春的朝氣，《中華民族大家庭巡禮》今天與讀者見面了，這是國家民委和光明日報攜手給祖國各民族兄弟姐妹和廣大讀者的新春獻禮！ 　　我們以每個民族為一個專版，兩周一期，力求通過精彩的瞬間和優美的文章，圖文並茂地見証各民族的時代風貌，展現那壯麗的山川、勤勞的人民和豐富的文化，反映各少數民族平實而又多彩的生活。基諾族于1979年6月經國家確認，成為中華民族大家庭中的第56個兄弟，本系列報導由此開始。十分希望得到您的關心和支持，提出寶貴意見。       　　種植砂仁 　　傳統民居 　　採青茶         基諾姑娘 　　　　基諾是舊稱攸樂的漢文音譯異字，意為尊崇舅舅的民族，雲南省西雙版納的熱帶季雨林是基諾族的家鄉。這里，熱帶闊葉林覆蓋，動物類數以百計，植物類數以千計，8萬多畝自然保護區是我國寶貴的熱帶動植物基因庫。基諾山因基諾人居住而得名，其村名也是基諾古語。人文資源証明：基諾山是基諾族的發祥地，基諾族是基諾山的開發者。攸樂山即基諾山居普洱茶六大茶山之首，但基諾族更具有前普洱茶的悠久歷史，創造了原始茶文化系列。清朝、民國中央政府與傣族土司曾間接統治基諾山。新中國成立後，1956年建立基諾山生產文化站，直接向社會主義過渡，之後幾經變革，1988年改建基諾山基諾族鄉。 　　“阿嫫肖貝”即創世母親是基諾口碑史的主題，是她創造了天地萬物。萬物會講話，爭吵不休，創世母親用洪水淹沒大地以再造人類。為了保護人種，她精心再造了一棵不會說話的大樹，取其一段後挖空樹心，讓一對人種進入再封住兩端，隨水漂流。這神奇木鼓在基諾山停住，最終繁衍了人類。這一美妙神話在世界性洪水故事與再造人類的創世紀中別具一格，但在基諾人心中，她卻是神聖的人祖信仰。基諾山寨整木制牛皮木鼓名為“司土”，被尊為創世女祖的遺產，專置于卓巴即山寨寨長家，是主宰山村生靈的至上神，卓巴也就因此而被賦予了神性權威。在卓巴祭鼓儀式中鼓聲響起，即為新年伊始，頭戴披風帽、身穿合縫開口筒裙的婦女與盛裝男子們，齊集卓巴家歌舞狂歡，人文內涵豐富，現已被法定為基諾民族的特懋克節。一年中有多項農祭儀式，皆為卓巴指揮山地農業的人文方式。家長、寨長、巫師、祭司都是男性，女子出嫁與父子聯名，說明基諾社會是父系制，但女人當家是竹樓主人且有神聖離婚權等習俗則是母系制特色，氏族內婚的存在又是血緣家庭的遺跡，這種社會發展中曾有多次歷史跳躍但步步都未到位的現象，是基諾族原生熱帶叢林文化的一大特點。 　　20世紀50年代中期，基諾族尚處于原生農村公社時代，村寨是地緣組織，土地公有，小部分私有,已使用鐵器，彈弓、弩與竹木工具仍在使用。傳統經濟以山地農業為主，實行13年分片輪作制，加上40多旱谷品種的優選，馬鹿、野牛等眾多野獸的獵獲，人們生活雖艱苦簡陋卻也與大自然保持了和諧共生。有男狩獵、竹編和女採集、紡織的社會分工，因成年禮後男女婚戀自由，兩性社會地位基本平等。1956年後，特別是改革開放以來，橡膠、砂仁、茶葉等經濟作物的發展逐步適應了市場經濟，使基諾社會的生產生活方式發生了巨變，經濟收入大幅提高，現代家電、交通工具、農業機械進入了尋常百姓家，基諾人民正在社會主義新農村建設中邁向小康社會。 　　昔日刻竹紀事，有米、鹽、雞等七種竹刻紀錄村民貢納，專人刻畢從中劃開，左半片有洞用繩串起歸公，右半片歸貢納人，年終結算，准確無誤，似古國符節之原形。1956年創辦小學，無文字的基諾人開始入學讀書，各族老師盡心教學，多年來因地制宜興辦小學和初中，培養出眾多利國利民的實用人才。 　　祭鼓供品 音樂離不開七聲音階，七聲音階的起源一直是世界音樂史學的難題，而基諾七音竹筒樂正好提供了一種有形的答案：獵得麂子等野獸的獵手們速選一根大竹，依傳統工藝製作一套七音竹筒，即刻按例奏出不同的曲調；此七音竹筒雖不等於現代七聲音階，卻正是人類音樂發生學上罕見的一種原生態。更為難得的是，七音竹筒自有深奧的文化內涵：獵手演奏七音竹筒是感謝主宰野獸的神女，且含有與神女相愛的寓意。 　　熱帶叢林中的基諾山村自成一體，其歌曲也自有特色，故音樂人採風中竟獲得不同曲調三百。文字史前基諾族人人能歌，節慶時的歌聲常通宵達旦，戀愛中的男女更以情歌開道，這都源于其悠久的璀璨文化：嬰幼兒時聽搖籃曲，童少年時唱兒歌，成年禮後唱情歌，婚後唱禮俗歌，寨老祭司唱神性長歌，如此世代口耳相傳，歌唱就成為了天賦人權。當聆聽長老們《巫師神女》的吟唱時，會令人想起屈原《離騷》中的神女戀，而《祭司神女》的低吟可以憶起曹植的《洛神賦》。最是一曲《杜米花》，“米考”輕唱，聲情萬種，音律直逼《小河淌水》。又有少年齊唱《東方紅》、《愛我中華》，以及時尚青年競唱中外流行歌曲，其時其境其情，夢似萬國古今和諧音樂總匯。 　　維我基諾，古老而又年輕，中華民族大家庭第56個兄弟兮，在中國特色社會主義大道上奮進。社會主義新農村建設兮，月異日新。現代與傳統和諧兮，大運長久。和諧文化有成兮，“56個民族56朵花”盛開，大榮大吉。 注釋： 　　基諾長老們認為：時下稱“司土”為“太陽鼓”違背基諾文化傳統，應當改正。為獵得麂子製作的竹筒叫“奇科”，馬鹿的竹筒較粗大叫“布谷”，野牛被視為獸中之靈，獵得後要製作兩套竹筒同時演奏。《巫師神女》與下之《祭司神女》是基諾巫師、祭司與神女愛情的神性長歌。《杜米花》，基諾情歌名。“米考”，基諾語為成年禮後的姑娘。 杜玉亭為雲南省社會科學院研究員，基諾族識別者 　　雲南省景洪市基諾山鄉白阿幹一家 【鏈接：基諾族】 　　基諾族主要分布在雲南省西雙版納傣族自治州景洪市基諾鄉，其余散居于基諾鄉四鄰山區。根據2000年第五次全國人口普查統計，基諾族人口為20899人。基諾族使用基諾語，屬漢藏語系藏緬語族彝語支。無本民族文字。 　　喜慶特懋克節 　　收聽北京的聲音 　　紡織比賽 　　學校進山寨 　　風味燒烤 　　賀新房儀式 　　分享獵物 大山作伴茶相依：基諾族_新聞頁_北美新浪網

【Upaper╱文／記者鍾嘉儒】 2008.01.09 09:08 am Q:萬事具備，只欠泡茶好功夫，想沖泡一壺好茶的秘訣為何？ A:拿捏熱水溫度與茶葉多寡，配合正確送茶動作，才是整套完整的茶道學問。不同品種的茶葉，應使用不同溫度的熱水。像是：烏龍茶可以90至95度熱水，綠茶可用70至80度的熱水，反覆回沖5次左右。 重要步驟   1.擺放於茶壺前的杯子，從左至右依序翻開。
圖／記者陳再興                 2.空壺裡注入熱水，提升茶壺溫度，當茶葉沖泡時，不因茶壺造成的溫差而走味。
圖／記者陳再興               3.倒入約12克茶葉，注入熱水等待1分10秒。
圖／記者陳再興                 4.從左而右依序倒入空杯中。
圖／記者陳再興 【2008/01/09 Upaper】

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對台灣茶有興趣的朋友，本文章可以讓你多一層認識....
由於四季春茶種，管理容易生命力較其他茶種強，目前，南投民間與鹿谷茶區的茶農，大都改種植四季春茶種，雖然在高山茶價格優勢壓迫下，低海拔茶區價格一直處於劣勢，在民間鹿谷茶農努力經營並不斷提昇製茶的技術，紛紛轉由機剪茶以量取價的情況下，四季春茶也算是替民間鹿谷茶區維持一條財路，各地茶行也以民間鹿谷機剪茶為取向，使得民間茶區仍能維持滿街都是茶商的榮景。 過去四季春茶剛出現時，顧客直覺的反映是太"脂粉味"了，然而在這幾年精進改良製茶技術，茶農已抓住製茶之要領，使得雖是低海拔茶區的茶葉，無論在口感香氣或喉韻上，均能受到普羅大眾的認同，當然質優價格低廉也是市場優勢因素之ㄧ。市場導向，有時是很殘忍與無情的，四季春茶種，是很怕天氣炎熱的，雖然有不少茶農在空調設備上增加投資，在品質上，的確是好多了，但季節的差異，夏茶(下茶)仍是一個無法克服的自然法則。
四季春茶，香！而且香味的變化不會因為不同批茶有太大的變化。品種很好認，一般市面上機採茶大部分都是四季春的天下。由於價格實在過低，許多茶農已尚失以往對種茶製茶那股熱勁，製茶若不好那喉韻就差多了！但用心製茶的四季春，其喉韻還是相當不錯的！經濟一不景氣，各行各業都差很多，前後只是幾年間，波動變化還真大！ 四季春俗稱"輝仔茶"，據說是木柵茶農張文輝先生偶爾從山上發覺到的茶種，一年可採七、八次，(鐵觀音一年五次)所以取名四季春。由於製茶過程簡單，炒菁過程較容易，且香味宜人，因此深受茶農喜愛；在民國八十年時陳煩堂先生自木柵茶區引進『四季春』品種到名間鄉 ，此品種抗寒性高，香氣明顯，縮短冬季茶葉休眠時段，成為本省茶農最常種植的茶種，和翠玉、金萱並列本省普植茶種的大宗。 台灣好的四季春茶，大部分都拿去作外銷茶了，除非和店家或茶農有熟，要不然是很難喝到的，優質的四季春茶，不但茶湯順且可以沖上八泡。
由於這幾年來，消費者迷信高山種的茶就是好茶，跟崇尚名牌名人是一樣的，又在茶商懶的去教育消費者下，反正消費者喜歡高山茶就弄高山茶來賣，形成好像機剪茶就是不值錢，也就是四季春真的不值錢似的，但如果您是喜好烏龍茶的消費者而且非烏龍茶不買，其實在這幾年中您不知已喝下多少四季春，有一個大家省思的問題，大家買茶或到朋友家喝茶，有人用四季春茶在賣或請客的嗎? 那麼台灣那些種植四季春的茶農不早就喝西北風了，想想吧，那麼多的四季春跑到那裏去了?目前台灣外銷的茶葉並不多喔，在此對消費者提醒一下，真要買烏龍茶葉，你可以要店家先拿四季春茶泡來喝，你若可以接受的話，那在決定你要買的茶葉，不僅可以買到真的適合自己喝的茶葉，也可省下一筆小錢的。 四季春茶種已是一種相當量化的茶種，種植面積自文山區到高雄六龜;花東地區皆有大量之種植，目前台商自印尼;越南;大陸亦有大量之栽種，回銷台灣的量也十分可觀，由於該地區人工價廉，多以手採茶回銷台灣，有投機商人將這些茶跟台茶合堆在一起，再分裝銷售，若你是買到的高山茶但卻只能泡三次的話，應該是買到回銷的茶葉了，就目前台茶四季春而言，機械採收45天一次，一年可採收8次;除早春茶，春茶，冬茶，冬片子等四次留作國內市場外;其餘均外銷與作成飲料茶。 台灣外銷的茶葉並不多，喝不到高山的四季春原因，市場高海拔茶幾乎是烏龍茶佔大多數，而四季春及金萱、翠玉就很少，然其中最大原因在於市場本身，四季春茶以前也種植很多，並非品質不好，而是茶價很差，以批發價而言，只有烏龍茶一半價多一點，雖然產量比烏龍茶多，但換算成本還是比烏龍茶差，造成茶農紛紛改種烏龍。當然跟作大家比較喜歡喝烏龍茶也有關。其實，也不是大家都喜歡喝烏龍茶，因消費者從早前的記憶，一直以來，認為大家喝的茶就是烏龍茶。 茶價為什麼差，當然是市場決定價格。消費者認知的搶手貨價格當然就不便宜了，就這跟金萱茶沒兩樣，知名度問題ㄚ，由於消費者只認得高山茶烏龍茶，除非行家或稍微入行的茶友，會選擇各式的樣茶來品茗，不然一般大眾購買大概都會指定高山茶的，那低海拔區的茶或聽都沒聽過的茶區種的茶，價格自然而然就高不起來了，但是台灣商人哪有這麼笨，有錢不會賺嗎，辦法是人想出來的，這些地區的茶葉，當然就是跟知名高山茶合堆一起賣了。茶農沒多賺到錢，消費者盡量花錢，最快樂的就是腦筋動的快的商人了。若以茶農製茶人來說，製茶，尤其半發酵茶要求就更多，論價格，最好是隨著製程，製茶師傅的技術，來算才較合理，茶農製茶人與茶商說，高山茶就讓外行人來買吧，好的四季春茶，又便宜的四季春茶，就留給我們這些生產者來享用吧。 閒談台灣四季春茶 - 花花世界 - 生活花卉園藝論壇

衆所周知，中國是茶的故鄉，也是茶文化的發祥地，中國人飲茶的歷史由來已久。俄國人飲茶的歷史雖不算太長，但茶在俄羅斯民族文化中卻佔有重要位置。俄國人不但喜歡飲茶，而且逐步創造並擁有了自己獨特的茶文化。
歷史上，茶從中國經西伯利亞直接傳入俄羅斯，這一過程沒有西歐國家的介人。據一些史書和百科全書的記載，俄羅斯人第一次接觸茶是在1638年。當時，作爲友好使者的俄國貴族瓦西裏·斯塔爾可夫遵沙皇之命贈送給蒙古可汗一些紫貉皮，蒙古可汗回贈的禮品便是4普特(約64公斤)的茶。品嘗之後，沙皇即喜歡上了這種飲品，從此茶便堂爾皇之地登上皇宮寶殿，隨後進入貴族家庭。從17世紀70年代開始，莫斯科的商人們就做起了從中國進口茶葉的生意。
插圖：古代俄羅斯夫婦飲茶圖
清朝康熙皇帝在位的1679年，中俄兩國簽訂了關於俄國從中國長期進口茶葉的協定。但是，從中國進口茶葉，路途遙遠，運輸困難，數量也有限。因此，茶在17、18世紀的俄羅斯成了典型的“城市奢侈飲品”，其飲用者的範圍局限在上層社會的貴族、有錢人，喝茶則一度成了身份和財富的象徵。直到18世紀末，茶葉市場才由莫斯科擴大到少數外省地區，如當時的馬卡裏葉夫，如今的下諾夫哥羅德地區。到19世紀初飲茶之風在俄國各階層始盛行。
然而，事實上，有關史料證明，俄羅斯人第一次接觸茶的時間還要早些，是在1567年。當年到過中國的兩位哥薩克首領彼得羅夫和亞雷舍夫曾經描述過一種不知名的稀奇的中國飲品，這種飲品在當時的西伯利亞東南部及中亞地區已經比較普及。但可能因爲哥薩克首領的描述沒有引起沙皇貴族的注意，因此，這段歷史也就鮮爲人知了。
不同的民族有著不同的飲茶習俗。從飲茶形式上來看，中國人飲茶一向是香茗一杯，細品慢飲；俄國人喝茶，則伴以大盤小碟的蛋糕、烤餅、餡餅、甜麵包、餅乾、糖塊、果醬、蜂蜜等等“茶點”。從功能上看，中國人飲茶多爲解渴、提神亦或消遣、待客；俄國人喝茶則常常爲三餐外的墊補或往往就替代了三餐中之一餐。當然，喝茶之際談天說地是必不可少的，俄羅斯人把飲茶當成一種交際方式，飲茶之際達到一種最好的溝通效果，而獨自飲茶則可以給自己一個沈思默想的機會，進行一種“我”與“我”的交流。
從飲茶的品種來看，中國人喜喝綠茶，俄羅斯人則酷愛紅茶。有趣的是紅茶在俄語是“чёрный чай”，直譯爲"黑茶"。之所以稱之爲“黑茶”，似乎有合乎邏輯的道理：一來紅茶在沒泡入水中時呈黑色，二來俄羅斯人喜喝釅茶，濃濃的釅紅茶也呈黑色。從飲茶的味道看，俄國人更喜歡喝甜茶，喝紅茶時習慣於加糖、檸檬片，有時也加牛奶。因而，在俄羅斯的茶文化中糖和茶密不可分，人們用Спасибо за чай-сахар(直譯謝謝糖茶)來表示對主人熱情款待的謝意。從飲茶的具體方式看，俄羅斯人喝甜茶有三種方式：一是把糖放入茶水裏，用勺攪拌後喝；二是將糖咬下一小塊含在嘴裏喝茶；三是看糖喝茶，既不把糖擱到茶水裏，也不含在嘴裏，而是看著或想著糖喝茶。第一種方式最爲普遍，第二種方式多爲老年人和農民接受，第三種方式其實常常是指在沒有糖的情形下，喝茶人意念當中想著糖，一邊品著茶，結果是似乎也品出了茶裏的甜味，很有些“望梅止渴”的感覺。
值得一提的是俄羅斯人還喜歡喝一種不是加糖而是加蜜的甜茶—— чай с мёдом。在俄國的鄉村，人們喜歡把茶水倒進小茶碟，而不是倒人茶碗或茶杯，手掌平放，托著茶碟，用茶勺送進嘴裏一口蜜後含著，接著將嘴貼著茶碟邊，帶著響聲一口一口地吮茶。喝茶人的臉被茶的熱氣烘得紅撲撲的，透著無比的幸福與滿足。這種喝茶的方式俄語中叫“用茶碟喝茶”。有時代替蜜的是自製果醬，喝法與伴蜜茶一樣。在18、19世紀的俄國鄉村這是人們比較推崇的一種飲茶方式。
俄羅斯人重視飲茶，也就常常賦予飲茶以更多的文化內涵，從而使俄語裏的“茶”（чай）一詞有了更多的意義。俄羅斯人中常以пригласить (звать) на чай (на чашку чая)(請來喝杯茶)向友人發出作客的邀請，同時也是向對方表示友好誠意的一種最佳方式。另外，舊時俄國人有喝茶給小費的習慣，俄語裏稱之爲“давать на чай”，後來俄語這一表達方式轉義表示指在任何場合的“付小費”。
中國的茶文化講究茶具。談到俄羅斯的茶文化，也不能不提到有名的俄羅斯茶炊（самовар）。俄國有“Какой же чай без самовара”(無茶炊便不能算飲茶)的說法。在民間，人們還把“самовар”(音譯“薩馬瓦爾”)親切地稱作“Иван Иванович Самовар”(伊萬·伊萬諾維奇·薩馬瓦爾)，或是“Золотой Иван Иванович”(金子般的伊萬·伊萬諾維奇)，以表示對茶炊的鍾愛和尊崇。在古代俄羅斯，從皇室貴族到一介草民，茶炊是每個家庭必不可少的器皿，同時常常也是人們外出旅行郊遊攜帶之物。俄羅斯人喜愛擺上茶炊喝茶，這樣的場合很多：當親人朋友歡聚一堂時，當熟人或路人突然造訪時；清晨早餐時，傍晚蒸浴後；炎炎夏日農忙季節的田頭，大雪紛飛人馬攢動的驛站；在幸福快樂欲與人分享時，在失落悲傷需要慰藉時；在平平常常的日子，在全民喜慶的佳節……在不少俄國人家中有兩個茶炊，一個在平常日子裏用，另一個只在逢年過節的時候才啓用。後者一般放在客廳一角處專門用來擱置茶炊的小桌上，還有些人家專門辟出一間“茶室”，茶室中的主角非茶炊莫屬。茶炊通常爲銅制的，爲了保持銅製品的光澤，在用完後主人會給茶炊罩上專門用絲絨布縫製的套或蒙上罩布。
（插圖：上方為新式的電熱式瓷質薩馬瓦爾，下方為老式銅質薩馬瓦爾）
俄羅斯茶炊出現於18世紀，是隨著茶落戶俄羅斯並逐漸盛行而出現的。茶炊的製作與金屬的打造工藝不斷完善密切相關。何時打造出的第一把茶炊已無從查考，但據記載，早在1730年在烏拉爾地區出產的銅制器皿中就有外形類似於茶炊的葡萄酒煮壺。直到18世紀中下期才出現了真正意義上的俄羅斯茶炊。在當時，有兩種不同用途的茶炊：茶壺型茶炊和爐竈型茶炊。茶壺型茶炊的主要功能在於煮茶，也經常被賣熱蜜水的小商販用來裝熱蜜水，以便於走街串巷叫賣且能保溫。原理在於茶炊中部豎一空心直筒，盛熱木炭，茶水或蜜水則環繞在直筒周圍，從而達到保溫的功效。爐竈型茶炊的內部除了豎直筒外還被隔成幾個小的部分，用途更加廣泛：燒水煮茶可同時進行。這種“微型廚房”式的功能使它的使用範圍不僅僅局限於家庭，而且深受旅遊、旅行者青睞。無論在森林還是草場，在能找到作燃料的松果或木片的地方，人們都可以就地擺上爐竈型茶炊，做一頓野外午餐並享受午後茶飲的愜意。到19世紀中期，茶炊基本定型爲三種：茶壺型(或也稱咖啡壺型)茶炊、爐竈型茶炊，燒水型茶炊(只用來燒開水的茶炊)。
茶炊的外形也多樣化。有球形、桶形、花瓶狀、小酒杯形、罐形，以及一些呈不規則形狀的茶炊。
談到茶炊就不能不提到它的産地。19世紀初，莫斯科州的彼得·西林先生的工廠主要生産茶炊，年産量約3000個。到19世紀20年代，離莫斯科不遠的圖拉市則一躍成爲生産茶炊的基地，僅在圖拉及圖拉州就有幾百家加工銅製品的工廠，主要生産茶炊和茶壺。到1912、1913年，俄羅斯的茶炊生産達到了頂峰階段，當時圖拉的茶炊年産量已達66萬隻，可見茶炊市場的需求量之大。
俄羅斯作家和藝術家的作品裏也多有對俄羅斯茶炊的描述。普希金的《葉甫蓋尼·奧涅金》有這樣的詩句：
天色轉黑，晚茶的茶炊
閃閃發亮，在桌上噝噝響，
它燙著瓷壺裏的茶水；
薄薄的水霧在四周蕩漾。
這時已經從奧爾加的手下
斟出了一杯又一杯的香茶，
濃釅的茶葉在不停地流淌
詩人筆下的茶炊既烘托出時空的意境，又體現著俄羅斯茶文化所特有的氛圍。
俄羅斯著名的畫家巴·庫斯托季耶夫以飲茶爲題材作有油畫《商婦品茗》，畫面左側靠邊就是一把高高立在餐桌上的銅制茶炊。通過人的視覺，傳遞俄羅斯茶文化的資訊。
在現代俄羅斯人的家庭生活中仍離不開茶炊，只是人們更習慣於使用電茶炊。電茶炊的中心部分已沒有了盛木炭的直筒，也沒有其他隔片，茶炊的主要用途變得單一燒開水。人們用瓷茶壺泡茶葉，茶葉量根據喝茶人數而定，一般一人一茶勺。茶被泡3一5分鐘之後，給每人杯中倒入適量泡好的濃茶葉，再從茶炊裏接煮開的水入杯。在現代俄羅斯的城市家庭中流行趨勢是，用茶壺代替了茶炊，茶炊更多時候只起裝飾品、工藝品的作用。但每逢隆重的節日，現代俄羅斯人一定會把茶炊擺上餐桌，家人、親朋好友則圍坐在茶炊旁飲茶，只有這樣，節日的氣氛、人間的親情才得以盡情喧染。而傳統意義上的пить чай за самоваром(圍著茶炊飲茶)在俄羅斯鄉村的木屋裏一直流傳至今
俄羅斯的飲茶習俗

By Guang Chung Lee Taiwanese tea culture dates back to at least the 18^th century, and has long contributed tea and traditions to the world. Even very antique Chinese books complimented Taiwanese tea production and mentioned how central it was to the people’s way of life. According to one such ancient record there were wild tea trees in Taiwan as far back as the middle of the 17^th century, but it was not until the Yong-Zheng reign (1723 to 1735) of the Qing Dynasty that the Taiwanese people began to harvest and sell the tea from these trees. However, the teas that have been developed over the past two hundred years in Taiwan are not related to those native wild tea trees written about long ago. The island has since then developed a reputation for the production of fine Oolongs such as Bai Hao Oolong (Oriental Beauty), Dong Ding, Bao Zhong, and several other varieties of high-mountain Oolong teas. In modern times the ideal mountainous climate, modern business practices and agricultural research have all combined to create what is probably one of the most dynamic and influential tea markets in the world. When discussing the varieties of Taiwanese tea, it is important to first understand the two main types of Oolongs: Stripe-Shaped and Ball-Shaped. These two distinctive categories actually represent the two places they were brought from in Mainland, China. One of the birthplaces of Oolong is the northern part of Fujian province. Oolong teas from Northern Fujian are long and thin, stripe-shaped teas like the famous Wu Yi Rock Teas (yen cha). The southern part of Fujian developed its own version of Oolong that is rolled into tight balls as exemplified by teas like Anxi Iron Goddess (Tie Guan Yin). The ancestors of today’s tea masters brought their teas from Fujian to the highlands of Taiwan, along with the skills to produce the fine selection of Oolongs that have become so famous around the world. The types of trees and processing methods were divided roughly between the northern and central regions of Taiwan, corresponding to the proximity of the northern and southern regions of Fujian. The Northern striped Oolongs, therefore, migrated to the Northern hilly regions of Taiwan and the Southern ball-shaped Oolongs were brought to the Central Highlands of Taiwan. With an understanding of the two kinds of Oolong tea, let’s take a closer look at the varieties of Formosa Oolong: Northern Dan Shui river series: Pou Chong and Bai Hao Oolong Origin: Northern Fujian, Wu Yi Yen Cha Time of Origin: 1810 A.D. (Ching Dynasty, Chiang Ching Period) The northern region of Taiwan imported the teas and processing techniques familiar to the northern region of Fujian to the banks of the Dan-Shui River in the early 18^th century. The Oolongs from that region of Taiwan are therefore stripe-shaped— the most famous of which are Pou Chong (Bao Zhong) and Bai Hao Oolongs (although there is the modern exception of Taipei’s Pin Lin Tie Guan Yin, which is farmed and processed in a more southerly way). Taiwan started to produce Pou Chong as early as 1810 when immigrants from Chuan Zhou, Fujian cultivated tea trees to make flowered teas, like jasmine green tea, for export. Later, World War II collapsed the international market and Taiwanese tea producers changed their focus to the domestic market, which demanded teas of finer quality. This turned out to be a positive change, as it forced them to research and develop the oxidation skills needed to generate a natural floral fragrance from teas without using actual flowers. Since then, Pou Chong has been farmed to emphasize the aroma and complexity of its fragrance during brewing. Of all the Oolongs Taiwan produces, Pou Chong is the lightest in oxidation. The elegantly narrow and naturally curved shape of Pou Chong reveals its heritage in Wuyi. Pou Chong is, however, not heavily oxidized and roasted like the rock teas (yen cha) of Wuyi. Pou Chong poignantly bridges green teas, like Long Jing or Bi Lou Chun, to the versatile and profound world of Oolong. It offers a unique, light greenness and freshness while at the same time presenting the floral fragrances of Oolongs. Another famous striped tea of Taiwan is Bai Hao Oolong. It is created through a glorious waltz played in harmony with Nature herself. During summer, the population of leaf hoppers reaches its peak and most of the tender tea leaves are eaten by the insects. Due to a natural self-defense mechanism, the tea leaves produce a higher content of polyphenols and tannins. These natural chemicals are mixed almost alchemically together with enzymes in the insects’ saliva to produce tea leaves that are rich, fruity and full of a profound floral aroma. Bai Hao Oolong is further distinguished by the fact that it requires three to four thousand leaf tips to make six hundred grams of tea, whereas other teas usually only need about one thousand. It is the most oxidized type of Taiwanese Oolong (~70%), and is only harvested in Hsin Chu and Miao Li counties during the summer season. Central Mountain Area: Dong Ding Oolong and High-Mountain Oolongs Origin: Southern Fujian, Tie Guan Yin Time of Origin: Ching Dynasty, Kang Xi Period Southern Fujian’s Tie Guan Yin was brought to the central part of Taiwan as early as the Kang Xi reign (1661 – 1772). The characteristic round shape comes from a special cloth-wrapped kneading process which also imparts a unique aroma to this kind of tea. Another important benefit of the tight shape is that it enhances and preserves freshness, as it limits the surface area of the leaf that is exposed to oxygen. This is very important for these High Mountain Oolongs. If they become stale they lose the wonderful floral fragrance they are so famous for. The most influential of these teas are Lu Gu’s Dong Ding Oolong and Ming Jian’s Song Po Oolong. Dong Ding Oolong originally referred to the Oolongs harvested from the three villages of Pin Ding, Yung Long and Feng Huang in Lu Gu, Nan Tou County. Since then it has come to mean any Oolong that is from anywhere in Lu Gu. In the olden days, when farmers had to walk to the tea farms and carry the harvested tea leaves back on foot, they had to tighten their calf muscles as they hiked. In the Taiwanese dialect “Ding” refers to this action. Everyday, they climbed up and down the constantly foggy, slippery and cold mountain paths. “Dong” is the word for such cold and slippery roads. Hence, “Dong Ding” alludes simply to the hiking up and down the mountains that the farmers did in order to bring this amazing tea to market. Dong Ding Oolongs have undergone some changes since the days when they were carried up and down the mountains on farmers’ backs. Traditional Dong Ding Oolongs were oxidized more (~60%) and roasted less than what we are seeing today. That is because more oxidized teas have a more consistent quality. Before, when the only means of transportation was walking, it was vital to have a stable quality control that could survive the longer transportation period. Moreover, the higher oxidized Oolongs enabled the tea farmers/merchants to store them safely for several years without the help of any of the modern innovations like refrigeration and vacuum or nitrogen-sealed packaging. The lighter oxidized (~30%) and more roasted style of Dong Ding Oolong was fashioned by and for the annual Lu Gu Tea Competition. The lighter oxidation allows the judges to inspect the nature of the tea leaves more easily. These lighter oxidized Dong Ding rely on a heavier roasting to bring out their mellowness and complexity. “Formosa High-Mountain Oolong” is a generic name that refers to all Oolong teas that are harvested from plantations over 1,000 meters in elevation. Such farms originated in Mei Shan of Jia Yi County in the 1970's. Farmers in Mei Shan originally depended on wood and bamboo farming. Then in the 1960's-70's, when the demand for bamboo and wood decreased, they faced financial hardship. The local governments had noticed the achievements of the tea industry in neighboring Lu Gu County, and decided to help the local farmers to plant tea trees and learn the processing skills needed to revitalize their economy. The higher elevation (Mei Shan: 1,100m, Lu Gu: 700m) and humid/foggy climate made the Oolongs produced in Mei Shan an immediate success. The thick and refined consistency as well as the rich and refreshing floral aroma quickly won the hearts of many tea drinkers in Taiwan. Following Mei Shan's accomplishment, tea farmers have been continuously trying to develop tea plantations at higher elevations. Nowadays, the most famous High-Mountain growing regions are Yu Shan (1,400m), Al Li Shan (1,600m), Shan Li Shi (1,700m), and Li Shan (2,500m). Higher elevations have become synonymous with higher quality teas produced in more conducive and often organic environments. Roasting (hong pei) Taiwanese Oolong has also inherited the roasting skills so essential to Wu Yi yen cha and Anxi Tie Guan Yin. Proper roasting of an Oolong should achieve the following goals: (1) stabilize the quality of the tea, (2) correct the aroma and taste of teas; and (3) increase the mellowness and complexity. Traditional Oolong roasting can be a very time-consuming and labor-intensive process, especially for Oolongs such as Dong Ding and Tie Guan Yin. It was often done by hand on hardwood charcoal fires, and the teas had to be monitored constantly by sight, smell and feel. Even today, as modern machinery has mostly replaced the hand-roasted, charcoal fires, experience and patience both play vital roles in the success of Oolong roasting. A good roasting not only achieves the three goals mentioned above, but also is free from any sharp or harsh firing or cooked feeling. It retains well the existing floral quality, adds a mature fruity aroma, and blends them in harmony. It enhances the taste to an even more lingering and penetrating experience that not only entertains the mouth and throat, but also resonates smoothly with our bodies. Aged oolongs While it is generally understood that Oolong teas are best when drunk fresh, some can be stored for years and actually improve with time. Those Oolongs are usually heavy-roasted or those with a higher oxidization, such as Dong Ding, Bai Hao Oolong or Tie Guan Yin. Lightly oxidized Oolongs like Pou Chong may also be aged if they first undergo a proper roasting. Aging an Oolong can significantly improve the mellowness and develop more complexity in the aroma and flavor. From my personal experience, even freshness-oriented High-Mountain Oolongs can become mellower and sweeter, though losing some degree of their freshness, after even just one year of aging. Aging Oolongs is not like the aging of Puerhs in which biological activity plays an important role in the transformation of the tea. Puerhs, therefore, need a certain degree of humidity and air circulation. In the aging of Oolongs, on the other hand, one should use an environment that is low in humidity and oxygen. Generally, a more robust Oolong is selected and placed into a glazed, earthenware jar. It helps to completely fill the jar so that there is less oxygen inside. The jar is then sealed shut, often with wax, and stored in a cooler place without sunlight or humidity. More oxidized or roasted teas are usually drier and therefore age better in humid climates like Taiwan. Many Western countries that aren’t very good places for storing Puerh, because they’re too cold or dry, would still be excellent candidates for storing Oolongs. Since our ancestors brought tea plants and their processing skills to the island, the knowledge of Oolong and tea horticulture has been significantly refined and improved. The thriving Taiwanese tea culture has arisen as a result of three factors: (1) Nature: the perfect growing conditions for tea trees and the young and rich geographic landscape of Taiwan itself; (2) Timing: the economic boom in Taiwan since the 1970's strongly fueled the domestic market’s demand for finer quality teas, creating a competition that forced farmers to improve their product; and (3) The People: the hard-working, honest and creative tea producers in Taiwan are always refining their skills. Today Taiwanese Oolong has become one of the hottest tea fashions in the world. Taiwan’s precious High-Mountain Oolongs have even had a large impact on the conventiona l Oolong production in Mainland China. Still, Taiwanese Oolong faces a formidable economic challenge in the global market. More and more teas that bear the name “Taiwan”, “Formosa”, “Dong Ding”, “Bai Hao”, etc. are not really from Taiwan and only marginally resemble the original quality. These forgeries abound in Asia and the West, offering tea at cheaper prices, but without the quality that the originals have become famous for. To overcome this problem, Taiwanese tea farmers, producers and merchants must continuously strive to improve and refine the quality of genuine Formosa teas and courageously introduce them to the world market. In that way the true form of Formosa tea, in all its astonishing varieties, will be given the chance to speak for itself.

Bai Hao oolong tea, with its multi-hued leaves reminiscent of autumn foliage, is a perfect choice for an autumn tea. The name Bai Hao means white tip and refers to the small tender white buds that are picked along with the top two leaves. Bai Hao originates from Xinzhu County, Taiwan. This area in northern Taiwan is especially humid and foggy and the natural environmental conditions help to create the special characteristics of Bai Hao. Unlike most high-quality Taiwanese oolong teas, which are picked in the spring or winter, the best grades of Bai Hao are harvested in June and July. Once harvested, the leaves of Bai Hao are processed to a greater degree of oxidation (around 50-60%) than other Taiwanese oolong teas. The result is a tea with a very smooth and sweet flavor, virtually no astringency, and a unique aroma of ripe peaches and honey.
There are many stories about the origin of Bai Hao tea. According to one Taiwanese tea book, a tea farmer in Beipu noticed that small green insects resembling grasshoppers had damaged the leaves of his newly picked spring crop. Rather than destroying his crop, he decided to process the leaves into tea. He took his finished tea to a local tea merchant, who liked it well enough to pay him twice the price of his usual tea. When he returned to his village, he boasted to his neighbors about his success. His neighbors believed he was exaggerating and so named his tea, "Peng Feng cha", or Braggart tea.
Bai Hao is also known as "Dong Fang Mei Ren" or Oriental Beauty. The origin of this name dates back to the early 20th century when a British tea merchant presented a sample of this tea to Queen Elizabeth II. The Queen was captivated by the special aroma and taste of Bai Hao. Because of the tea lovely appearance, like a beautiful lady, and its origin in Asia, the Queen named it "Oriental Beauty". Bai Hao Oolong: Taiwan's Beauty

一、 展覧工作籌劃步驟 展覧工作基本上可以分為兩大部分，一部分是籌備工作，包括對内組展、對外聯絡、展品運輸、設計施工、宣傳廣告、行政後勤、財務費用等等。這一部分工作是“後台”性質的展覧工作，是“搭台”，貫徹整個展覧工作過程；另一部分是展台工作，包括接待觀衆、介紹公司、介紹産品、散發資料、記録情况、洽談貿易、簽訂合同以及開展後續工作等等。這一部分工作是“前台”性質的展覧工作，是“唱戲”，基本限于展覧會展出期間。兩部分工作有着密不可分的聯系，對展出成功都很重要，都需要認真策劃。但是兩部分工作的性質却有所不同，籌備工作服務于展台工作，展覧有關人員必須清楚這一關系，明白這種關系將有助于有目的地做好各項展覧工作，提高展出效益。 具體的展覧工作籌劃步驟如下：　　 步驟内容： 第一步按實際需要將工作分為幾大類：設計施工，展品運輸，宣傳聯絡，行政後勤，展台工作、後續工作　　 第二步在各分類之下詳細列明具體事項 第三步弄清楚工作之間的關系，比如A工作要在B工作完成之後方能開始 第四步要定期檢查工作進度和質量，及時發現并解决問題，保證整體工作協調、正常 二、展出工作内容

明確人員及分工

人是展覧工作的第一要素，是展出成功與否的决定性因素。展覧工作首先是人的工作。把人的工作做好才有可能把展覧工作做好，才有可能使展出成功。展覧人員包括籌備人員和展台人員。

（1） 人員組成　　從管理角度出發，展覧工作需要由各方面的人員組成一個協調的組織機構。此機構可以大到委員會，由高級領導人挂帥，比如參加世界博覧會的組織委員會多由各參展國的政府領導人挂帥挂名，也可以小到小組甚至一個人。後一種情况比較普遍，通常稱為項目小組或籌備小組。此機構必須有一個負責全面工作的人員，通常稱為項目經理或協調人。

（2） 人員分工　　確定人員後，確定人員分工，制定人員分工情况聯絡表。聯絡表内容包括人員姓名、職權、聯系地址。聯絡表可以包括外部單位比如支持單位、接待單位、運輸公司、運輸代理、設計施工公司、道具公司、廣告代理、花草公司、電信公司等。聯絡表分為籌備聯絡表和展台聯絡表，分彆用于籌備和展出階段。　　（3） 人員管理　　對展覧有關人員進行有效地管理是展出成功的基本保證。展覧人員管理其突出的特點是臨時性。對大部分參加展覧工作的人員而言，展覧工作只是其全部工作中的一部分，甚至是一小部分。籌備組、組出組也是臨時組建的機構，也就是説工作是臨時的、人際關系是臨時的。這種臨時性可能表現為當事人工作不全力以赴，同事之間、上下級之間關系松散，合作比在正常環境下可能難一些。把臨時組織起來的展覧人員管理好，從而將臨時性的展覧工作做好，需要比正常情况更下功夫。  

規定工作事項及順序

展覧工作事項相當繁雜，工作中的銜接、交叉環節也很多。面面周到地安排展覧工作有助于籌備和展出有條不紊、少疏忽、高效率。展覧工作由項目經理，或由項目經理與上級領導，或由項目經理與項目組共同討論制定；展覧工作由項目經理監督實施并協調。

為科學地籌劃、開展展覧工作，制定展覧工作方案是必須的，目前對工作方案有幾種表示方法：

（1）所有一切記在腦子裏。這是一種原始的計劃和工作方法，憑經驗和記憶辦事。這種方法已不適應現代工作要求。

（2）列出主要工作事項和時間。這是一種初級的計劃和工作方法，工作仍主要靠經驗，也不能適應現代工作要求。

（3）制作簡單的工作日程表。這是一種中級的計劃和工作方法，將所有事項分類排列，注明負責人，注明辦理時間。這方法適應目前中國的管理水平。

（4）制作詳細的工作日程圖。比上一種方法又進了一步。用圖示方法表明工作流程、關系，注明負責人，注明辦理時間等有關管理因素。展覧工作事項列明、列清後，再加上一些基本情况，就是一份展覧工作方案。

規定時間和期限

時間安排也可以稱作日程安排。展覧籌備時間看起來可能富裕，但是實際很緊張。越拖延，展覧籌備工作將越困難，而展出成功的可能性就越小。展覧會上常見參展企業抱怨主辦者。但是實際是參展企業本身造成的。這些公司往往把籌備工作放到不得不做時才做，導致效率和效益低下。如果籌備時間確實太大，那麽只有把工作全部委托給施工公司，包括設計、制作、施工、布置等。施工公司也許會在最後一刻趕制完畢，但是質量可能要受一些影響，費用肯定要高不少。展覧許多工作看似不起眼但是籌辦起來却很費時費力，因此要盡早安排。展覧會日程具有不可更改性，因此展覧工作日程和計劃一定要嚴謹，執行也要認真。制定嚴格的工作日程將有助于提高本展覧工作的效率。在展覧會工作中，“按時”非常重要。展覧環節多，如果一項工作未按時，一系列工作將受影響，嚴重的會出現混亂，甚至使展覧失敗。因此，做展覧工作一定要嚴時，規定的截止期一定要遵守。不論展覧會大小，參展企業都應把已定日期當作紀律來執行遵守。

規定費用標准

展覧各項工作都需要費用。費用預算總額應在做展出决定就確定。在做出展出决定後，就應該盡快做展覧的詳細預算，與計劃工作結合做。根據財力和工作需要安排預算，在執行過程中根據實際情况進行必要的調整，并對開支做出必要的控制。没有預算，没有控制，就可能超支，甚至超支嚴重。費用工作為整體展覧工作服務，費用工作的目的是合理、科學地使用各種費用，提高展覧工作的效率和效益。做展覧費用工作，不僅要站在財務角度，精打細算，不浪費金錢；也要站在經營角度，用投資的觀念有效地使用金錢，把它當作投資時，金錢才有活力，工作才具有挑戰性，才能導致效果和高效益。費用的使用涉及預算、開支、記賬、審核、决算等等許多技術要求和規定。展覧費用應納入參展企業的整體財務系統以及政府統計、税務等部門的標准，而各單位、各地方的差彆很大，且不相容，這裏只簡單講述展覧預算、控制等管理方面的一些原理、方法、知識、經驗，為參展企業做費用工作提供幫助。

展覧費用一般分為直接費用和間接費用。直接費用是指為籌辦展覧直接開支的費用，各個展覧項目之間會有比較大的差异。展覧直接費用由展覧項目有關人員負責管理，屬于展覧項目工作一部分。

展覧界一般將展覧費用劃分為四大類，并根據不同的特點、標准提出分配比例和備用比例：

（1）設計施工類費用，也有人稱作展台費用。包括設計、施工、場地租用、展架租用或制作及搭建和拆除、展具制作和租用、電源連接及用電、電氣設備租用及安裝、供排水設備租用及安裝、電話電腦租用及安裝、餐飲設備租用及安裝、地毯租用、展品布置、文圖設計制作安裝、防火器材租用、展台清掃等。這部分費用可能占總預算的35﹪～70﹪，一般需要约15﹪的備用。

（2）展品運輸類費用。包括展品的制作或購買（如果是現有産品，也有資金占用問題）、包裝、運輸、裝卸、倉儲、保險等。這部分開支因距離遠近、展品多少、單程或往返運輸而差异可能很大，可能占總額預算的10﹪～20﹪。需要留有10﹪的備用額。

（3）宣傳公司關類費用。這是一個範圍很廣的開支類別，包括宣傳、新聞、廣告、公共關系、交際、聯絡、編印資料、攝影、攝像等等。這部分開支可能占總預算的10﹪～30﹪，由于其收縮性很大，因此備用額可以多留些，為20﹪。有些參展企業在宣傳、廣告、公關、編印資料等方面有專門的預算，展覧宣傳等工作是整體宣傳等工作的一部分，在這種情况下這類開支項目也可以列為間接開支項目。

（4）行政後勤類費用，也有人稱作人員費用。行政或人員開支是一個比較復雜的類彆。展覧間接開支大部分發生在這裏。比如正式籌備人員和展台人員的工資是參展企業的經常性開支，不從展覧預算中開支。但是，從管理角度看，為了計算展覧工作效率和效益，必須計算人員開支。有一種計算方式稱為“人員——時間核算”。“人員——時間核算”不僅是一種時間與預算和開支挂鈎，要根據參展企業具體情况决定。行政後勤的直接開支費用主要有人員的交通、膳食、住宿、長期職工的補貼、人員培訓、人員制服、臨時雇員的工資等。這部分費用可能占總預算的10﹪～20﹪，備用額10﹪。

 

台灣特色茶及其選購品飲方法

:::=============================================================================

一、台灣特色茶介紹:::

台灣市面上所見茶的名稱非常多，但綜合起來不外是綠茶、文山包種茶、半球型包種茶、高山茶、鐵觀音茶、白毫烏龍茶和紅茶等茶類。這些茶類各有其特色，簡述如下：
1. 綠茶：是一種不發酵茶，因製法不同，有蒸菁綠茶和炒菁綠茶之分，前者專銷日本，後者外銷北非等國家，是台灣自光復後至1980年代外銷最多的茶類。

2. 文山包種茶：文山包種茶產於台灣北部山區鄰近烏來風景區，以台北縣坪
　林、石碇、新店所產最負盛名。文山包種茶要求外觀呈條索狀，色澤翠綠
　，水色蜜綠鮮豔略帶金黃，香氣清香幽雅似花香，滋味甘醇滑潤帶活性。
　此類茶著重香氣，香氣愈濃郁品質愈高級。

3. 半球型包種茶：以凍頂茶聞名國內外，凍頂茶原產於台灣中南部鄰近溪頭    風景區(海拔500～800公尺山區)，近年來已擴展至南投縣名間鄉、竹山鎮等茶區及台灣各茶區均產製半球型包種茶。此類茶因製造過程經過布球揉捻(團揉)，外觀緊結成半球型，色澤墨綠，水色金黃亮麗，香氣濃郁，滋味醇厚甘韻足，飲後回韻無窮，是香氣與滋味並重的台灣特色茶。

4. 鐵觀音茶：屬半發酵茶，其製法與半球型包種茶類似，惟其特點即是茶葉經初焙未足乾時，將茶葉用方形布塊包裹，揉成球狀形，並輕輕用手在布包外轉動揉捻。並將布球茶包放入「文火」的焙籠上慢慢烘焙，使茶葉形狀曲彎緊結，如此反覆進行焙揉，茶中成分藉焙火之溫度轉化其香與味，經多次沖泡仍芬香甘醇而有回韻。水色橙黃顯紅，味濃而醇厚，微澀中帶甘潤，並有種純和的弱果酸味。尤以鐵觀音品種製造為上品，主要生產於台北市木柵茶區及台北縣石門鄉茶區。

5. 白毫烏龍茶(椪風茶)：白毫烏龍茶為台灣名茶中之名茶，全世界僅台灣產製，由採自受茶小綠葉蟬吸食之青心大冇幼嫩茶芽，經手工攪拌控制發酵，使茶葉產生獨特的蜜糖香或熟果香，為新竹縣北埔、峨眉及苗栗縣頭屋、頭份一帶茶區所產特色茶。白毫烏龍茶以芽尖帶白毫愈多愈高級而得名。其外觀不重條索緊結，而以白毫顯露，枝葉連理，白綠黃褐紅相間，猶如朵花為其特色，水色呈琥珀色，具熟果香、蜜糖香，滋味圓柔醇厚。

6. 高山茶：飲茶人士所慣稱的「高山茶」是指海拔1000公尺以上茶園所產製的半球型包種茶(市面上俗稱烏龍茶)。主要產地為嘉義縣、南投縣內海拔1000～1300公尺新興茶區，因為高山氣候冷涼，早晚雲霧籠罩，平均日照短，致茶樹芽葉所含兒茶素類等苦澀成分降低，而茶胺酸及可溶氮等對甘味有貢獻之成分含量提高，且芽葉柔軟，葉肉厚，果膠質含量高，因此高山茶具有色澤翠綠鮮活，滋味甘醇，滑軟，厚重帶活性，香氣淡雅，水色蜜綠顯黃及耐沖泡等特色。

7. 紅茶：是一種全發酵茶；由台灣中部日月潭地區的阿薩姆品種所製成的紅茶，香味特殊，品質最佳。

台灣特色茶及其選購品飲方法－台灣特色茶介紹

 香氣(Aroma):
指茶葉泡出的整個氣味的程度。大多可分為 ﹕清淡(Thin)，適中(Medium)，飽滿(Full)，濃郁(Expansive)，四種名稱。
跳躍運動:
為什麼要讓茶葉充分跳躍呢?所謂[跳躍]，就是把煮沸的開水倒入茶壺時，茶葉上下躍動、對流運動的現象。看起來就像茶葉在跳躍一般。故稱跳躍運動，且這樣才能徹底的萃取出紅茶的風味。
黃銅味(Brassy):
由於製造過程茶葉的萎凋不足，使紅茶產生類似黃銅的味道。
苦味(Bitter):
由未熟的茶葉產生，讓人喝起帶有苦味。
鮮明(Briskness):
用來形容各種紅茶其固有特色的展現程度。
口感(Body):
泛指茶湯在口中整體的感覺，或濃、或淡、或順口、或圓潤。 常以 Full Body 來形容一杯濃純圓潤的紅茶。
乳化(Creamy):
茶湯在冷卻後呈現濃稠狀的自然現象。
香味(Flavor):
茶湯中某一特定的氣味，香氣的某一部分。例如以錫蘭紅茶為茶基的伯爵茶，其香氣至少包含了錫蘭茶及佛手柑兩種香味。而台茶十八號更有天然肉桂的淡香和薄荷的芳香。
魚池鄉 －「手工、自然 - 靈山紅茶」

How is green tea made? Background In 1992, global production of all tea was almost 2.5 million tons. The majority of tea production occurs in the subtropical areas of Asia, including China, India, Sri Lanka, Japan, and Indonesia. More than 35 countries now produce tea, with India, China, and Sri Lanka the leaders. Black tea is the most produced, followed by oolong and jasmine tea. Besides the distinction between varieties of tea, the major difference between the type of teas is the processing method. Green tea leaves are picked and immediately sent to be dried or steamed to prevent fermentation, whereas black tea and other types are left to ferment after they are picked. Green tea originated in China for medicinal purposes, and its first recorded use was 4,000 years ago. By the third century, it became a daily drink and cultivation and processing began. Today, China has hundreds of different types of green teas. Other producers of green tea include India, Indonesia, Korea, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, and Vietnam. Green tea was first introduced in Japan during the Nara period (710-794), when numerous Japanese Buddhist monks visited China and brought tea seeds back to Japan. The Japanese tea industry is said to have begun in 1191, when the monk Eisai planted tea seeds from China on temple land. He then encouraged the cultivation of tea in other areas of Japan by extolling the health benefits of tea drinking. The making and serving tea as an art form (sado, the way of tea) was introduced in Japan during the eleventh century. The origins go back to China's Tang dynasty (618-907), when a ritual was performed in Buddhist temples. A brick of tea was ground to a powder, mixed in a kettle with hot water, and ladled into ceramic bowls. One of the first Japanese uses of the tea ceremony in public was when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, then the most powerful warlord in Japan, held a tea party in his camp the evening before a large battle in order to calm his warriors and inspire morale. Hideyoshi's own sado teacher, Senno Rikyo, is also credited with elevating tea from a simple beverage to a highly respected method of self-realization. Today, there are tea schools in Japan to learn the proper methods of the tea ceremony or chanoyu. The Urasenke School is the most active and has the largest following. The form of chanoyu that is practiced today was established in the second half of the sixteenth century by Rikyu. Chanoyu involves more than merely enjoying a cup of tea in a stylized manner. The ceremony developed under the influence of Zen Buddhism aims to purify the soul by becoming one with nature. The true spirit of the tea ceremony has been described by such terms as calmness, rusticity, and gracefulness. The rules of etiquette are carefully calculated to achieve the highest possible economy of movement. For some 500 years after tea was introduced to Japan, it was used in its powdered form only. It was not until the mid-sixteenth century that the processing method for conventional green tea was invented. Prior to the Edo period (1600-1868), the consumption of tea was limited to the ruling class. Only after the beginning of the twentieth century, with the introduction of mass production techniques, did tea achieve widespread popularity among the general population. Today, tea leaves for green tea are grown in the warmer southern regions of Japan, with about half produced in Shizuoka Prefecture. Uji, a district near the ancient city of Kyoto (and the district from which the finest Japanese tea comes from to this day) became the first tea-growing region in Japan. Later, tea plantations were planted in Shizuoka Prefecture and, finally to surrounding regions. A total of about 100,000 tons of green tea is produced per year from 60,000 hectares of tea fields. Only green tea is produced in Japan. Though traditionally green tea was produced manually, the process has been fully mechanized in Japan. The various types of tea now produced differ according to cultivation practices and processing methods. Sencha is a tea with three quality levels: high, medium, and low. It is manufactured from the tender top two leaves and the shoots for the high and medium grades and from the third from the top leaf for the low grade. Sencha, which comprises 80% of all green tea production, consists of tiny dark green needle-shaped pieces. Almost immediately after picking, the leaves are steamed for about 30 seconds to seal in the flavor, followed by drying, pressing, and rolling steps. Gyokura is the highest grade of tea and is made from the most tender leaves that are grown under 90% shade using bamboo blinds. Matcha is made from similar leaves and is processed into a powder form for exclusive use in the tea ceremony. Bancha is a low-grade coarse tea made from older leaves picked after Sencha leaves are picked or picked in the summer. It is generally composed of lower grade tea leaves, which are divided into two kinds: large leaf, and small leaf. Houjicha is a wedge-shaped tea made from Bancha that is roasted at 302° F (150° C) to prevent fermentation and produces a light golden color when made. Kamairicha comes from northern Kyushu and is first roasted at 392-572°F (200-300°C) followed by cooling at 212°F (100°C). Green tea is traditionally served without sugar, milk, or lemon since these would destroy the true flavor and aroma of the tea. Raw Materials Green tea is made from the top two leaves and buds of a shrub, Camellia sinensis, of the family Theaceace and the order Theales. This order consists of 40 genera of trees or shrubs that have evergreen leaves, flowers with five sepal or leaf-like structures and petals. The genus Camellia consists of 80 species of East Asian evergreen shrubs and trees. Besides the leaves, other ingredients may be added to create special scents or flavors during the drying process, such as jasmine, flowers, or fruits. The tea plant originates in an area between India and China. There are three main varieties of this plant—China, Assam, and Cambodia—and a number of hybrids in between. The China variety grows as high as 9 ft (2.7 m) and has an economic life of at least 100 years. The Assam variety is a tree that grows as high as 60 ft (18.3 m), with an economic life of 40 years dependent upon regular pruning and plucking. The 16 ft (4.9 m) high Cambodia variety is naturally crossed with other varieties. The Manufacturing Process Cultivation and harvesting

A suitable climate for cultivation has a minimum annual rainfall of 45-50 in (114.3-127 cm). Tea soils must be acid since tea plants will not grow in alkaline soils. A desirable pH value is 5.8-5.4 or less. Tea can be cultivated up to 7,218.2 ft (2,200 m) above sea level and can grow between the equator and the forty-fifth latitude. The plants are reproduced through tile-laying or through seeds from trees that have grown freely.

A crop of 1,500 lb (681 kg) of tea per acre requires up to two workers per acre to pluck the tea shoots by hand and maintain the field. The tea plant is generally plucked every five to 10 days, depending on where it grows. The length of time needed for the plucked shoot to redevelop a new shoot ready for plucking varies according to the plucking system and the climatic conditions. Intervals of between 70-90 days are common.

In Japan, the tea harvesting begins around the end of April, with the leaves picked by hand or machine. A bud and several leaves are picked from each plant. The first crop is harvested in April and May, the second crop in June, the third crop in July and the final crop in September. For gyokuro or matcha tea, the plants are shaded for two weeks after the first bud comes out in spring before picking. The leaves are then shipped to the factory for processing. Since not all can be processed at once, the leaves are stored in a large bin that is kept at the proper temperature by blowing cool air into the bottom.

Drying

After the tea leaves are plucked, they must be dried to prevent fermentation, which stops any enzyme activity that causes oxidation. In China, green teas are often pan-fired in very large woks, over a flame or using an electric wok. The tea leaves must be stirred constantly for even drying. Withering is also used, which spreads the tea leaves on racks of bamboo or woven straw to dry in the sun or using warm air. Again, the leaves must be moved around to ensure uniform drying.

In Japan, steaming is normally used. Before the steaming process begins, the tea leaves are sorted and cleaned. The steaming time determines the type of tea that is produced. Sencha tea is normally steamed for 30-90 seconds. Another type of sencha called fukamushi is steamed for 90-150 seconds to produce a flaky light yellowish green tea. Steaming is conducted in a bamboo tray over water or by a revolving or belt-conveyor type machine. After mechanical steaming, the leaves go into a cooling machine that blows the water from the leaves.

Shaping

In most countries, rolling or shaping green tea leaves is done by machinery. In China, high-end leaves are hand-rolled into various shapes, including curly, twisted, pointed, round, and more. Rolling the tea creates a distinctive look, as well as regulates the release of natural substances and flavor when it is steeped in the cup.

In Japan, a number of rolling and drying steps take place. A special machine is used to accomplish the first rolling and drying steps simultaneously and takes about 48 minutes. The tea leaves are dried to improve their strength so they can be pressed during the next drying process. Moisture from both the surface and from the inside of the tea leaves is removed using this machine.

This machine consists of a spindle with finger-shaped extensions that stir the leaves while heated air (at 93.2-96.8° F [34-36° C]) is blown into the machine. Though the rolling temperature is automatically controlled by the computer, it is still important for the operator to touch the tea by hand to make sure it feels right.

Since the moisture level still varies for different parts of a leaf or from one leaf to another at the end of the first step, another rolling process takes place to uniformly distribute the remaining moisture in the leaves. This process rolls the leaves by pressing under a rotating disk to bring the moisture from the center of the leaves to the surface. The process is conducted at room temperature for 24 minutes.

Next, the leaves go to another rolling/drying machine, which uses a spinning pedal inside of a revolving drum to convert the leaves into a round shape. This process takes about 40 minutes. It is very important to take out the leaves at the same moisture level every time.

The tea leaves are removed from the previous machine, separated into small portions and placed in pots. They are gradually rolled into tiny round or needle shapes using a weight. This step takes 40 minutes and removes most of the moisture. The total process thus far takes about three hours compared to hand rolling and heating which can take up to 10 hours.

Final drying

In Japan, green tea must be dried for about 30 minutes after the final rolling step for storage. The tea is spread on a caterpillar-type device and dried slowly to about 5% moisture content or less. At this stage the half-processed tea, called aracha, is shipped to tea merchants or wholesalers for final processing. Aracha is not uniform in size and still contains stems and dust.

Post-processing

After the tea is shipped to the wholesalers in Japan, it undergoes several other steps to produce the final product. A special machine grades and cuts the tea by particle size, shape, and cleanliness, depending on the final qualities desired. The machine uses mechanical sieves or sifters fitted with meshes of appropriate size, as well as cutting devices to achieve a quality tea. Another drying step follows to produce the aromatic flavor, followed by blending per customer's specifications, packing and finally shipping to retail shops. In other countries, similar sorting, weighing, and packaging steps occur after the shaping process.

Quality Control

The quality of green tea depends first on using good tea leaves. The natural quality of the leaf, including color and aroma, must then be preserved during the manufacturing process to produce a good green tea. In Japan, this involves controlling the temperature to 93.2-96.8° F (34-36° C) during rolling, drying, and storage. Since tea leaves can generate their own heat, cool air is blown into the bottom of the container to keep the leaves at the proper temperature during storage.

The Japanese government also subjects all exported tea to a strict inspection. Standard samples, which are established at the beginning of the tea season each year, are used to compare various properties of the finished product with the samples. Leaves, stems, moisture, content, flavor, taste, and color are all rigidly examined. There is also a stringent chemical analysis to determine tannin, caffeine, vitamin, and mineral contents. Tea is exported only after passing these tests.

The Future Though the health benefits of green tea have been known for centuries, recent research is providing concrete evidence of these benefits. Studies have shown that green tea can prevent cancer since it contains catechin, the major component of tea. A study in Japan showed that residents in areas devoted to green tea production in the central and western regions of Shizuoka Prefecture, who drink the tea daily, have a significantly lower death rate for all types of cancer compared to other regions. These findings were supported by animal experiments that showed green tea reduced the growth of tumors. Other research has shown that green tea consumption may inhibit nitrosamine formation—known carcinogens or cancer-causing chemicals. Green tea catechin has also been shown to limit the excessive rise in blood cholesterol in both animals and humans, as well as prevent high blood pressure. Other benefits of catechin include killing bacteria and influenza viruses, preventing halitosis, inhibiting increase of blood sugar, and fighting cariogenic bacteria. Green tea (especially matcha) also contains important vitamins (C, B complex, and E), fluoride (for preventing cavities), amino acids (for lowering blood pressure), and polysaccharides (lowers blood sugar). Green tea is a strong antioxidant as well and is even more powerful than vitamin E or vitamin C due to the presence of polyphenols, such as epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). Extracts of green tea may also make strains of drug-resistant bacteria that cause skin infections more sensitive to penicillin, British researchers report. The investigators also found that diluted tea extract acted synergistically with antibiotics, making them more potent against particular strains of this type of bacteria. In addition to preventing or curing these more common diseases, preliminary research indicates the antiviral capability of green tea catechin may have some beneficial effect in fighting AIDS. Laboratory tests have verified that catechin can inhibit the activity of the AIDS virus. Instead of simply being known as a popular Japanese beverage, green tea may thus become an important "new" medicine of the twenty-first century for the entire world. Where to Learn More Books Mitscher, Lester A. and Victoria Dolby. The Green Tea Book: China's Fountain of Youth. Avery Publishing Group, 1997. Oguni, Dr. Itaro. Green Tea and Human Health. University of Shizuoka, Japan Tea Exporters' Association. Okakura, Kakuzo. The Book of Tea. Dover Publications Inc., 1964. Rosen, Diana. The Book of Green Tea. Storey Books Inc., 1998. Other Japan Tea Exporter's Association. 17 Kitabancho, Shizuoka, Japan 420-0005. +81-54-271-3428. Fax: +81-54-271-2177. Maruichi Green Tea Farm. http://www.maruichi-jp.com (February 2, 1999). The Teaman's Tea Talk. http://www.teatalk.com (June 30, 1998). The Teapot Salon. http://www.iris.orjp/-hamadaen/ (1996). [Article by: Laurel Sheppard] green tea: Definition and Much More from Answers.com